I remember hearing the stories in my youth. My father came to Latvia in the 70s to visit family and at that time, all visitors had to lodge at the old Soviet built hotel, which was apparently bugged and all conversations recorded. It was very difficult to get out on one's own to see family and visits to their homes were not allowed. All mail and phone conversations to and from the U.S were also monitored.
The effect of 50 years of Soviet domination on Latvia are still present today. Riga itself is a mix of the most beautiful old architecture I've ever seen in one city, with many buildings showing the years of decay and neglect along with their beauty. Some of the mid-century structures boast the modern, sparse Soviet "design sense." And much of it is dusted with graffiti, some is being rebuilt, and women still sweep the streets in front of their shops at night.
Riga's airport is amazingly beautiful. Very modern, with lots of wood (even wood floors!) and glass. Yet, an American we ran into said that just about 7 years ago, when he first flew into the airport, the old Soviet MIG fighter planes were still sitting out in the trees surrounding the airport. And now, on the way from the airport to the City, there's a huge mall across from a stand of birch trees. The new sits with the old, and there's enough of that old that I recognize it, like a familiar friend, from the stories and discussions and picture books of my childhood.
This city is so amazingly beautiful... she shines through the Soviet years. They have left their mark but something much more enduring and persistent has been there much longer, and that's where Riga's beauty lies. The parks, the Freedom Monument, the streets lined with Art Nouveau buildings, the enduring beauty of a city that has seen 800 years of life... I am so happy I made the plans to come here, and see it all for myself.
I have just read your blog...you have been busy! I am so happy for you that you finally made it to Latvia! Riga sounds exquisite. Your photos are wonderful. I look forward to what's next on your road home.
love you
Hi to Susan
Posted by: Ann Macker | June 05, 2008 at 01:05 PM