daughter of latvia

From Soviet to Today

I remember hearing the stories in my youth. My father came to Latvia in the 70s to visit family and at that time, all visitors had to lodge at the old Soviet built hotel, which was apparently bugged and all conversations recorded. It was very difficult to get out on one's own to see family and visits to their homes were not allowed. All mail and phone conversations to and from the U.S were also monitored.

The effect of 50 years of Soviet domination on Latvia are still present today. Riga itself is a mix of the most beautiful old architecture I've ever seen in one city, with many buildings showing the years of decay and neglect along with their beauty. Some of the mid-century structures boast the modern, sparse Soviet "design sense." And much of it is dusted with graffiti, some is being rebuilt, and women still sweep the streets in front of their shops at night.

Riga's airport is amazingly beautiful. Very modern, with lots of wood (even wood floors!) and glass. Yet, an American we ran into said that just about 7 years ago, when he first flew into the airport, the old Soviet MIG fighter planes were still sitting out in the trees surrounding the airport. And now, on the way from the airport to the City, there's a huge mall across from a stand of birch trees. The new sits with the old, and there's enough of that old that I recognize it, like a familiar friend, from the stories and discussions and picture books of my childhood.

This city is so amazingly beautiful... she shines through the Soviet years. They have left their mark but something much more enduring and persistent has been there much longer, and that's where Riga's beauty lies. The parks, the Freedom Monument, the streets lined with Art Nouveau buildings, the enduring beauty of a city that has seen 800 years of life... I am so happy I made the plans to come here, and see it all for myself.

Takin' It Easy

We're taking it easy today. We just had lunch and it's 3 pm. And that was after a morning of just sitting around in the room figuring out logistics for tomorrow--we're traveling to Saldus and Ventspils, all in one day, and needed to know if we could accomplish that by bus/train or not. Turns out not, so we're renting a car. That took a long time to figure out!

Yesterday, we really hoofed it. We walked to the Freedom Monument, all over the far end of Old Town, and went to the top of St. Peters (see photo). We also found the best jewelry so far, many great Latvian designs in silver and gold. I got two rings and a traditional Latvian "brooch" or pin that holds cloth together to make a cloak, or wrap.

Then we walked to the Central Market, then the bus station (for info), then the train station, where we got on board (after some rudeness from the surly blonde ticket agent) and went to Majori, one of the small towns that comprises Jurmala.

This was our first foray out of town. Seeing the smaller towns gives one a different picture than in Riga. Many of the towns seem to have mostly old, run down housing; one, Zolitude, had a huge complex of Soviet-era high rise housing that most reminded me of housing projects I have seen in cities like Chicago.

I shot some video from the train, as we headed into Boldure. Boldure is where I may have some cousins; however, I could not get their addresses before I left, and do not know how to contact them.

In Majori we had lunch at the first place we found, as we were starving from all the walking we'd done earlier. We had spare ribs and "fries with pickled vegetables." The pickled vegetables turned out to be carrots, red cabbage and beets, and were quite yummy. We also got "regular" size drinks of water, not the little mini bottles one usually gets and pays too much for here. {I have been wondering how the Europeans stay hydrated!)

After that we wound our way to the beach, which is sometimes described as the "Riviera of the Baltics." The Latts, having just emerged from a Baltic winter, were in swimsuits and acting as if it were 80 degrees outside. Swimming in the sea and playing volleyball, and just getting their feet into the soft sand.

I have often wondered if one reason that so many Latvians settled in the Great Lakes region was because they felt more at home there... I believe that more so now, having smelled the air, felt the sand and water, and seen the flora and fauna in the neighborhoods by the beach. Our cottage "up north" in Michigan could very well have been in Jurmala. Even details like the slope of the land toward the beach is much more like the Great Lakes than it is like the areas of the Pacific near where I have lived in Oregon and California.

Photo: My friend Susan wading the Baltic Sea

 

We're going to leave the room soon to go explore more architecture. That means I will have many photos to share; I'll  post yesterday's photos as well as some from today, a bit later... now, it's time for a walk and exploration!

Riga Surprise

It's late and we need to go to bed soon so I need to keep this short. We spent most of today walking around Old Town. We were continually awed by how many photo ops there were--amazing buildings from the last 8 centuries, in many forms, were the main subject of the pictures taken. Check out the album for all of them.

Riga Day 2

Susan and I kept saying that we really LIKED Riga. It's not just about Latvia being an ancestral land for me. Riga is a great city on many counts.

Stopped in many shops that sell amber, the stone that symbolizes much of Latvian culture. However, much of the amber here now looks like amber from any where. Still hoping to find a perfect shop where the more traditional designs are sold.

Had lunch... it was delicious if not a bit odd. Last night the hotel restaurant served me caesar salad with a bit of bacon on it, it was good, so I ordered it that way again today for lunch. Got few greens, but a lot of bacon, and it was not like American bacon. More like ham... less fatty, very meaty and not crisp.

The final stop of the day was the Latvian Museum of the Occupation. A very somber, and moving, exhibition.

More tomorrow.

Latvia, at Last!

After a great Lufthansa flight from Portland to Frankfurt in Business Class, we arrived to learn that Lufthansa's entire computer system was down. The staff were doing what they could to process people manually (and luggage too!) so it was a bit chaotic. Still, we knew we there in time for our flight to Riga and just needed to be patient (it's wonderful to travel with friends who have the same temperament about these things!).

Finally, we take off for Riga! We both napped on the plane but I had been up close to 42 hours at this point--and on the road traveling from home for about 24 hours--so when we arrived in Riga I was feeling not much at all, just wickedly tired.

Everything at the airport in Riga was very efficient and Lufthansa had managed to get our bags on the right plane even with their system troubles so we were very grateful. Our little red cab whisked us to Riga. On the way, turning onto the main road into Riga, I saw a large stand of birch trees on my left. I thought of my mother, who loved the birch trees of her homeland. Across, to my right, is a mall, with signs for many recognizable brands--the signs of globalization are everywhere in Latvia.

Finally, the hotel. We are thrilled with the Hotel Monika. We're right across the street from the northern entrance to Kronvalds Park, which takes us to Old Town and through the site of many museums, nearby embassies, etc.

The photo shows the view from our balcony. We walked some last night, in an attempt to stay up to a normal Latvian bedtime and get acclimated to the new time zone. In our walk, we found the neighborhood full of beautiful architecture, interesting cafes, and a lot else we plan to return and photograph. (At this point, I felt like the walking dead--I was depleted.)

Our last stop was a neighborhood grocery store, filled with many common things and so many things that seem more Latvian... several kinds of herring, including creamed, smoked, in beets, in tomato, etc; latvian rye breads; the little cow candies of my childhood; etc.

Today, we're off to see more of Riga. This time, we'll have slept and I will feel more like absorbing it all.

A few more photos (15) are online here.

Home, Then Gone

It's late and I am not getting to bed tonight. Even so, I have packing and such because tomorrow I leave for my first trip to LATVIA! I am very excited and very much looking forward to it. Even so, I haven't really recovered from Kauai yet, nor gotten all the photos up.

Meanwhile, here's a selection of Kauai photos... some from air, some from the sea, others just from "home" at Wahi Mana, or driving the red-tinged roads of Kauai. Just click on Daniel's feet and say three times "Take me to Kauai, Take me to Kauai, Take me..." and you'll be there!

Best of Kauai

Leaving Kauai

It's not quite 8 am in Kauai as I write this. I'll soon be packing to leave this little spot of paradise. I hear D shaking out his clothes as he has already started packing. (I am a much better procrastinator than he is.)

It's difficult to relate the feelings and experience of being here. (I know, I have to post those photos... there are just so many. Maybe I'll have time on the plane.) But aside from the visuals, just a few moments ago I was sitting on the lanai just listening to the bird calls, back and forth, for what seemed like the better part of an hour. The birds are very active here in the AM with their noise, but it's the most beautiful bird noise I have ever heard. Even the cat just sits and listens.

We got up a bit after 6 to watch our final sun rise of this trip. (Being up for sunrise was pretty much a daily thing, at least for D... I slept in some mornings). Yesterday we were down on the beach at 5:30 am and watched almost from first light, to sunshine. The sand crabs also kept us amused with their digging of holes and frantic watchfulness.

We have a few hours before we leave for the airport. That gives us enough time to still hang out on the beach and wiggle toes in the water. For this I am very grateful.

For anyone following the saga of Daniel and his eye, he saw the opthamologist on Tuesday, and got new drops. They have worked very well and his comfort has increased and the swelling has reduced. For the first time, he says it's feeling better! So it appears we are past that bump in our otherwise idyllic island experience.

Another Unscheduled Trip to Town

Daniel's abraded cornea is not getting better so we're heading into town right now for a second look by some medical professional--once he's off the phone talking to the insurance company.

We have some great photos to post later. Sorry for the interruption to our regularly scheduled dispatches from paradise.

From Na Pali to the ER

The day started out very early, as we had to walk along the beach to meet up with our boat tour by 7:15 am. The tour was of the Na Pali coast, meaning "The Cliffs" and these are among the most impressive cliffs I've ever seen. They really reminded me most of glaciers, only tropical and green. Photos will be online shortly and I'll post a link when they are up.

After the boat trip we went to Hanalei, a small town north of us. We shopped for ceviche ingredients and had our first shave ice, the quiintessential Kauai treat.

But we didn't have the most fun day after that. Yesterday D had injured his eye when a wooden flower on the lanai hit his eye when he bent over to get something from his backpack. Today it got progressively worse and when I saw some indication he had an infection, we decided it was time to seek medical attention for it.

Off we drove to Kapaa, pronounced Kah-pah-ah. There we found a nice emergency room with nice staff, not too busy, who confirmed that Daniel had injured his cornea. He was given antibiotic drops and instructions not to swim tomorrow--which is probably OK since we're going up the helicopter tomorrow AM. More on that, tomorrow.

Sun, Surf, Sleep

We arrived at our rental house on Anini Beach about 26 hours ago... we spent Friday up in Waimea Canyon the driving around the island here and there. Both D and I got a bit sunburned, not thinking originally about the need for sunscreen when in a convertible top car.

Since getting to Mahi Wana... what can I say. The place surpasses my best hopes. The water is amazing, the beach is clean and quiet. We literally just walk a short distance for swimming and snorkeling. The house itself is perfect.

To keep things simple I have put our photos online... they really say it all.

Optionally you can just watch this slideshow:

Kauai, Day One. The Floods

So, before I head to Latvia, I am visiting Kauai for a week with my friend D. Today we flew from SFO to Lihue, an nice 5+ hour flight. I had only gotten one hour of sleep the night before so really, all I wanted to do on the plane was sleep.

We landed in Lihue and D hosted lunch at a place recommended to us by the woman in the Hertz car rental office. She said this is where the locals eat. The place was very plain and "dinerish" but the menu was full of good sounding stuff. I got a salmon tempura salad (salmon rolled in nori, then tempura battered and fried) served on organic greens with a dijon/honey/macadamia etc. dressing. D got mahi-mahi stuffed with crab and other, well, stuff. We indulged in home made chocolate cake for dessert, and I mean home made. The highlight of the cake was that instead of the usual frosting this one was topped with what can only be described as pudding. Not too sweet, but very moist and good overall.

We made our way to the place we're staying just for the first night, the Garden Island Inn. I picked this place because it was a) cheap and b) the rooms have air conditioning.

So we ended up meandering across the road to have a drink and check out the touristy shops. By this time there was some rain, mostly sprinkles, but as we walked around the rain increased. By the time we'd had our drinks and D tried on some groovy island wear, it was a downpour. I looked back across the street to our lodging, and could see that the road had flooded.

In Kauai they have this 'red dirt' everywhere. It's so insidious it will change the color of materials that it comes in contact with. The traffic and flooding were such that we could see the rushing red rain water covering the roadway, and especially deep at the curbs (such as they were). There was too much water and too much traffic to attempt to cross the road... we were saved by a jovial shuttle bus driver who took us in and dropped us off.

Tomorrow the plan is to get up early and go to Waimea Canyon. It's supposed to be the "Grand Canyon" of the Pacific. We think getting up early will be easy because of the time change... we'll see.